SOUTHERN AFRICA ADVENTURE
It was a very long airplane journey from Chicago to Cape Town South Africa. In fact, a very, very long journey. Seven hours to London, twelve hours to Johannesburg, two more hours to Cape Town. For two days and nights we slept on an airplane and were relieved to finally take a shower when we arrived at our hotel in Cape Town.
The purpose of the trip was to catch the World Cruise 2019 in Cape Town on Princess Cruise Line.
We had about 3 days in Cape Town to sightsee and prepare for the cruise.
BRIEF HISTORY OF SOUTH AFRICA
First, a very brief history of South Africa. Shortly after the British defeated the Dutch in the Boer War, in 1909 they united the 4 colonies Cape Colony, Natal Colony, Transvaal and Orange River (formerly the Orange Free State, an independent country). They called it the Union of South Africa, the USA, but obviously that caused some confusion worldwide. Years later they changed the name to the Republic of South Africa. The Boer War was boring, but it was significant in that it made Winston Churchill a public figure--he was captured by the Boers but managed to escape and write a series of articles about the war. His adventures were definitely not boring.
After World War II, the National Party took power, instituting the odious Apartheid laws in which people's rights were determined by the color of their skin. The National Party ruled for about 50 years until 1997 when it was disbanded in the wake of internal unrest and international pressure. During that time, South Africa was kicked out of the British Commonwealth, as well as being the subject of international sanctions. Today, South Africa is a multi-cultural nation in which most people speak several languages--English, Afrikaans (similar to Dutch), Zulu, Xhosa and others.
A couple of years ago, on a previous cruise, we met our South African friends Ruth and Stewart who were looking forward to seeing us again. After we booked the trip, we learned that Ruth had already scheduled an educational trip to the Silk Road in Asia. So on the day we arrived in Africa, Ruth was landing in Azerbaijan. A couple of days later she called us on Skype from Kazakhstan, the land of Borat. Or maybe it was Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan--she visited all the Stans. We could clearly see her on the phone.
Stewart doesn't like to travel, and he was content to stay in Cape Town. We spent a wonderful day with Stewart driving us around Cape Town. In South Africa, they drive on the left side of the road, so I am afraid to drive there. We took him to lunch in Simon Town which is an English village transplanted to South Africa. This area was a former British naval base. We ate delicious fish and chips at Bertha's Restaurant right on the harbor. The prices are reasonable--the dollar is strong against the Rand.
Stewart told us about the guy who purchased the top of a mountain on the coast with the intention of building his house there. He paid serious money for the parcel with a spectacular view. However, he forgot to do his due diligence. He failed to consult with the natives who lived at the base of the mountain. They objected for various reasons. They proceeded to blockade the road, and the guy was never able to build the house. Essentially he had no access except perhaps by helicopter.
South Africa is a very modern and civilized First World country, at least in the cities. Cape Town is a cosmopolitan and cultured city. We visited the Parliament Building. The official capitol is Pretoria, but the government spends 6 months in Pretoria and 6 months in Cape Town. Cape Town is mostly a Christian country and boasts two cathedrals. It also has much open space with beaches, mountains and forests. A significant part is Table Mountain National Park, located within the city limits. Cape Town could be any big city in America except for the wild baboons.
BABOONS
We have squirrels; they have baboons. People and baboons have an uneasy truce. We saw the ubiquitous "Don't Feed the Baboons" signs along the roads. Baboons don't attack people unless they are cornered or if they think you have food for them. They will boldly try to grab a backpack or sack containing food. The baboons are smart. They have figured how to open car doors. To my knowledge, they haven't yet learned to program computers but give them time.
Driving along the coast we saw a family of baboons walking along the cliffs. The babies followed the parents. There are approximately 500 baboons in the Cape Town area divided into 11 troops, each headed by an alpha male.
Far below where the two oceans meet, many surfers brave the rough currents in one of the most popular surfing destinations in the world. At Boulders Beach you can find a colony of penguins. We've seen penguins in South America and we chose not to visit them.
THE GREAT MANDELA
The national hero in South Africa is Nelson Mandela. Everywhere you go, you see Nelson Mandela statues. We visited a bazaar selling statues of various sizes for people to install in their gardens. Many depict African animals like elephants, lions and giraffes, but the most popular is the bust of Nelson Mandela. We walked through the verdant Archbishop Tutu Arch and Gardens in the center of town.
Unlike many, or even most African countries, South Africa under Mandela's leadership made a serious effort to forego revenge and Black Nationalism and promote good relations between the races. When he ended Apartheid, there was no backlash and most Whites stayed in the country and helped promote prosperity for the country. Nevertheless we still saw shantytowns which they call "townships". There appears to be a significant gap between rich and poor But a large percentage of Blacks and so-called "Coloreds" (mostly mixed race and Asians) have shared in the prosperity. As I indicated, goods and services are reasonably priced.
Our friends who are White and Jewish have lived in South Africa for many years now and feel no threat to their safety. They live a happy life in a nice neighborhood at the foot of Table Mountain. Most houses in affluent areas have walls around them topped with barbed wire. Cape Town is considered to experience less crime than Johannesburg , but people take no chances. Stewart was born in England and Ruth in the former Rhodesia (Zimbabwe). Both grew up in Zimbabwe but were effectively chased out of that country when the regime changed.
TABLE MOUNTAIN
We visited Table Mountain and rode the cable car to the top with 63 other people. The iconic Table Mountain is recognizable throughout the world. From the ground it looks flat on top. When you reach the top, it is anything but that. It is covered with large rock outcroppings and trees. Within the National Park we also visited Signal Hill overlooking the city and nearby Lion's Head, a huge rock face. On both, we were treated to magnificent views of Cape Town.
Large tailless rat like critters called rock hyraxes dart in and out of holes between the rocks. These rodents are locally known as dassie rats, using the Dutch word for "badger". They are unafraid of people. These brown furry creatures resemble earless rabbits Believe it or not, they are closely related to elephants and also sea cows.
On the ground, the weather was warm about 75 degrees F., but at the summit, the weather was cold and blustery. Many of the tourists wore shorts and t-shirts and regretted it. We waited in line in the cold to take the cable car back down. We struck up a conversation with two ladies in front of us, Eileen and Charlene from Los Angeles. Eileen and her husband started a ministry in Johannesburg to help criminals go straight. Their business is booming. Success is slow, measured one person at a time.
We stayed two nights at the Hilton City Center, not far from the trendy area of Cape Town. Our hotel is located literally down the street from the Bo Kaap neighborhood of brightly painted houses of yellow, green and blue. Bo Kaap is a popular tourist destination at the foot of Signal Hill. Most of the inhabitants are of Malay descent (formerly called "Coloreds"). The Cape Malays, as they are called, were imported by the Dutch traders in the 16th and 17th Century from the East Indies, Malaysia and elsewhere in Africa and Asia. Tourists flock to Bo Kaap for its fine restaurants serving Cape Malay cuisine, a delectable combination of Asian, Arab and European food.
Other than Nelson Mandela, I should mention some other important personalities who are celebrated in South Africa Dr. Christaan Bernard performed the first heart transplant back in the 1960's. The main hospital in Cape Town is named after him.
HELEN SUZMAN
The main road along the harbor is named after Helen Suzman (1917-2011). Most Westerners don't know who she was but for many years, she was the only anti-Apartheid member of Parliament. She was the lone voice in the wilderness. Born in South Africa, she was a Jewish woman of Eastern European descent. She founded the Progressive Party in 1959, and for 13 years was the only member of Parliament representing that party.
During her 36 year tenure in Parliament, she worked tirelessly to improve prison conditions for Nelson Mandela and his fellow ANC members whom she considered political prisoners. She used her Parliamentary Privilege to get around government censorship and pass information to the media about Apartheid's worst abuses. She was an eloquent and witty speaker. For example, when she was confronted by an opposing member of parliament about embarrassing the country with her questions, her reply was "It's not my questions that embarrass South Africa, it's your answers!" Mrs. Suzman was twice nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize and I'm curious to know who did win the prize in those years. On the other hand, Mahatma Gandhi never won one either.
To be fair, after the African National Congress came into power, she often criticized that government also because of rampant corruption.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
Many foreigners think Cape of Good Hope is the Southernmost point of Africa. It is not. The actual Southern point is 105 miles East at Cape Agulhas ("Cape of the Needles" in Portuguese). That is officially the boundary between the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean although you can't tell from looking at the water.
SAFARI AT AQUILA GAME RESERVE
On our last day in South Africa, we visited the Aquila Game Reserve, a luxury resort near the Stellenbosch wine country. Tourists go to see the Big 5--African elephant, Cape buffalo, rhinoceros, lion, leopard. We also saw hippopotami, zebras, ostriches, elands and others. There are no tigers in Africa, but if there were, they would be in that park. The guide drove us around in a 4 wheel drive truck seating about 12 people. Fortunately it had a canvas top because it was raining The animals don't go inside when it rains, so we saw them in their natural habitat. In the old days, people, big game hunters, went on safaris to shoot big game. Then they would have the dead animals stuffed and bring them home to display in their family rooms. The authorities don't allow that anymore.
The Aquila Game Reserve is huge, covering 10,000 hectares (over 24,000 acres or 39 square miles). The animals are protected from poachers, but they still have security people guarding the park.
Several years ago, the cheetah population was becoming endangered. The authorities determined that farmers were shooting or trapping them because they were preying on sheep and livestock. Someone came up with a brilliant idea--the farmers would breed large, fierce Anatolian Shepherd dogs to chase away the predators. We're talking large and fast dogs--150 pounds or more who can run 50 mph. The dogs were introduced to Southern Africa in 1994 and have done a terrific job protecting the livestock. As puppies, the dogs are raised in a pen with the sheep. After a whIle, the dog thinks it's a sheep. When a cheetah or other predator would approach, the dog would chase it away. Then the farmers didn't have to shoot the cheetahs. Incredibly it worked, and the cheetah population came back.
Our truck drove past a large pond and we saw a hippo poking his head out of the water. A hippopotamus spends most of its days submerged in the water except for its nostrils and head. When it surfaces, birds light on its back and feast on ticks. The hippo eats grass when it comes out of the water at night. It is very dangerous to humans because it kills them although it doesn't eat them.
We saw several elephants in the wild near a flock of ostriches. Ostriches are dangerous also. They run very fast but we were told that if one chases you, it is best to run in a zigzag pattern. That confuses them.
We saw a pride of lions composed of two males and five females. Lions lie around most of the time, at least until they get hungry. Obviously you don't want to walk up to a lion, but you are safe on a truck. The lions disregard the truck--they view it as an animal larger than themselves. Apparently the lions feed on eland or springboks which are plentiful in the park.
Later we saw 3 rhinoceres, a male, females and a calf. Rhinos are vegetarians, but if you stand next to one, it will knock you down or kill you. On a previous safari I actually fed a rhino an apple, sticking my hand into its mouth. You can do that if you are on a truck.
NAMIBIA--LUDERITZ AND WALVIS BAY
Namibia used to be called South West Africa. It was originally a German colony prior to World War I. In the late 1800's, European powers were carving up Africa to exploit its mineral resources. Lüderitz was founded in 1883 by a German guy named Adolf Lüderitz who purchased the land from an indigenous chief. Lüderitz was an adventurer. He died on an expedition on the Orange River in 1886, and they named the town after him. A railroad was built in 1907, but it was a sleepy town until 1909 when diamonds were discovered on the beach there, and it became a boomtown almost overnight. They built a new train station in 1912 which is a major landmark in town although the railroad no longer uses it.
Eventually DeBeers coordinated the diamond industry, and now it operates a logistic center in Lüderitz. Other than that Lüderitz is once again a sleepy town in a time warp, but about 12,000 people live in the area. The German colonial architecture looks like it did in 1915 when the Germans abandoned it.
Walking around the semi deserted streets, I stopped in the only tavern in town. The most popular drink on the menu is Windhoek Beer, named after the capitol of Namibia which we didn't visit. In terms of food, Lüderitz is best known for its rock lobster which is barbecued. Restaurants also serve up German dishes like wiener schnitzel. Taxi drivers hang out at the tavern, and we hired a local man to drive us around in a beat up taxi for $10 U.S.
He drove us up a steep hill to the historic Felsenkirsch which can be seen from all over town. The Felsenkirsch, an Evangelical Lutheran church was built in 1911 and has been beautifully maintained. The local Germans raised funds back home in Germany to build the church. Kaiser Wilhelm donated the stained glass windows to the church. The Kaiser, who was Queen Victoria's nephew, hadn't started World War I yet, so he was still a respected world leader.
We also visited the Goerke House which they built around the same time to accommodate the expected visits from German royalty who never showed up. It couldn't go to waste, and railroad executives used the house as a headquarters. Today the mansion is a tourist attraction.
Namibia is mostly desert, the Namib Desert from which the country gets its name. Our ship sailed along the Skeleton Coast, so named because of the skeletons of whale bones and shipwrecks up and down the coast.
The nearby sand dunes are legendary and hikers pride themselves on climbing them. We live near the Indiana Dunes, so that's not a big deal to us. However many people from our ship did so. They were challenged to climb the highest one, Dune 7, hundreds of feet of soft sand. It is very strenuous--a climber takes three steps and slides down two.
Speaking of sand, the most popular sport in Namibia is dune bashing--riding dune buggies at high speeds up and down the dunes. For traction, they have to let most of the air out of the tires. The ride compares to a large roller coaster. We did that a couple years ago in Abu Dhabi and it's lot of fun.
WALVIS BAY
We sailed a hundred miles or so up the Skeleton Coast to Walvis Bay which is the largest harbor in Namibia. The main industries in this busy town are oil drilling, oyster beds and diamonds. The areas we drove past appear prosperous. We saw neat rows of stone, brick and stucco houses. Each house has a 3-4 foot wall around the property. Many homeowners run businesses from their homes, and the walls are adorned with signs promoting their businesses. Some trappings of civilizations have not reached Namibia yet--there is no McDonalds in all of Namibia. On the other hand, there are no McDonalds in North Korea, Bolivia, Iceland or Bermuda either.
We decided to take a catamaran ride from the harbor, next to the Walvis Bay Yacht Club. We had a nice time on the catamaran. Our guide, Luni, an attractive blonde from Windhoek seemed to know all the wildlife by name. Sea gulls swooped by and grabbed fish from her hand. A large pelican with an 8 foot wingspan landed on the deck and schmoozed with the people. Luni fed the bird mora moro fish, also known as ribaldo, from a barrel. She would hold the fish by the tail, and the pelican would grab the fish in his beak and would have to turn it around in his large mouth to swallow it.
Then several large seals plopped on deck and begged for fish. We tourists are not supposed to touch the seals, but the animals are not shy about stepping on your feet. The crew fed us freshly caught oysters which were delicious.
The purpose of the trip was to catch the World Cruise 2019 in Cape Town on Princess Cruise Line.
We had about 3 days in Cape Town to sightsee and prepare for the cruise.
BRIEF HISTORY OF SOUTH AFRICA
First, a very brief history of South Africa. Shortly after the British defeated the Dutch in the Boer War, in 1909 they united the 4 colonies Cape Colony, Natal Colony, Transvaal and Orange River (formerly the Orange Free State, an independent country). They called it the Union of South Africa, the USA, but obviously that caused some confusion worldwide. Years later they changed the name to the Republic of South Africa. The Boer War was boring, but it was significant in that it made Winston Churchill a public figure--he was captured by the Boers but managed to escape and write a series of articles about the war. His adventures were definitely not boring.
After World War II, the National Party took power, instituting the odious Apartheid laws in which people's rights were determined by the color of their skin. The National Party ruled for about 50 years until 1997 when it was disbanded in the wake of internal unrest and international pressure. During that time, South Africa was kicked out of the British Commonwealth, as well as being the subject of international sanctions. Today, South Africa is a multi-cultural nation in which most people speak several languages--English, Afrikaans (similar to Dutch), Zulu, Xhosa and others.
A couple of years ago, on a previous cruise, we met our South African friends Ruth and Stewart who were looking forward to seeing us again. After we booked the trip, we learned that Ruth had already scheduled an educational trip to the Silk Road in Asia. So on the day we arrived in Africa, Ruth was landing in Azerbaijan. A couple of days later she called us on Skype from Kazakhstan, the land of Borat. Or maybe it was Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan--she visited all the Stans. We could clearly see her on the phone.
Stewart doesn't like to travel, and he was content to stay in Cape Town. We spent a wonderful day with Stewart driving us around Cape Town. In South Africa, they drive on the left side of the road, so I am afraid to drive there. We took him to lunch in Simon Town which is an English village transplanted to South Africa. This area was a former British naval base. We ate delicious fish and chips at Bertha's Restaurant right on the harbor. The prices are reasonable--the dollar is strong against the Rand.
Stewart told us about the guy who purchased the top of a mountain on the coast with the intention of building his house there. He paid serious money for the parcel with a spectacular view. However, he forgot to do his due diligence. He failed to consult with the natives who lived at the base of the mountain. They objected for various reasons. They proceeded to blockade the road, and the guy was never able to build the house. Essentially he had no access except perhaps by helicopter.
South Africa is a very modern and civilized First World country, at least in the cities. Cape Town is a cosmopolitan and cultured city. We visited the Parliament Building. The official capitol is Pretoria, but the government spends 6 months in Pretoria and 6 months in Cape Town. Cape Town is mostly a Christian country and boasts two cathedrals. It also has much open space with beaches, mountains and forests. A significant part is Table Mountain National Park, located within the city limits. Cape Town could be any big city in America except for the wild baboons.
BABOONS
We have squirrels; they have baboons. People and baboons have an uneasy truce. We saw the ubiquitous "Don't Feed the Baboons" signs along the roads. Baboons don't attack people unless they are cornered or if they think you have food for them. They will boldly try to grab a backpack or sack containing food. The baboons are smart. They have figured how to open car doors. To my knowledge, they haven't yet learned to program computers but give them time.
Driving along the coast we saw a family of baboons walking along the cliffs. The babies followed the parents. There are approximately 500 baboons in the Cape Town area divided into 11 troops, each headed by an alpha male.
Far below where the two oceans meet, many surfers brave the rough currents in one of the most popular surfing destinations in the world. At Boulders Beach you can find a colony of penguins. We've seen penguins in South America and we chose not to visit them.
THE GREAT MANDELA
The national hero in South Africa is Nelson Mandela. Everywhere you go, you see Nelson Mandela statues. We visited a bazaar selling statues of various sizes for people to install in their gardens. Many depict African animals like elephants, lions and giraffes, but the most popular is the bust of Nelson Mandela. We walked through the verdant Archbishop Tutu Arch and Gardens in the center of town.
Unlike many, or even most African countries, South Africa under Mandela's leadership made a serious effort to forego revenge and Black Nationalism and promote good relations between the races. When he ended Apartheid, there was no backlash and most Whites stayed in the country and helped promote prosperity for the country. Nevertheless we still saw shantytowns which they call "townships". There appears to be a significant gap between rich and poor But a large percentage of Blacks and so-called "Coloreds" (mostly mixed race and Asians) have shared in the prosperity. As I indicated, goods and services are reasonably priced.
Our friends who are White and Jewish have lived in South Africa for many years now and feel no threat to their safety. They live a happy life in a nice neighborhood at the foot of Table Mountain. Most houses in affluent areas have walls around them topped with barbed wire. Cape Town is considered to experience less crime than Johannesburg , but people take no chances. Stewart was born in England and Ruth in the former Rhodesia (Zimbabwe). Both grew up in Zimbabwe but were effectively chased out of that country when the regime changed.
TABLE MOUNTAIN
We visited Table Mountain and rode the cable car to the top with 63 other people. The iconic Table Mountain is recognizable throughout the world. From the ground it looks flat on top. When you reach the top, it is anything but that. It is covered with large rock outcroppings and trees. Within the National Park we also visited Signal Hill overlooking the city and nearby Lion's Head, a huge rock face. On both, we were treated to magnificent views of Cape Town.
Large tailless rat like critters called rock hyraxes dart in and out of holes between the rocks. These rodents are locally known as dassie rats, using the Dutch word for "badger". They are unafraid of people. These brown furry creatures resemble earless rabbits Believe it or not, they are closely related to elephants and also sea cows.
On the ground, the weather was warm about 75 degrees F., but at the summit, the weather was cold and blustery. Many of the tourists wore shorts and t-shirts and regretted it. We waited in line in the cold to take the cable car back down. We struck up a conversation with two ladies in front of us, Eileen and Charlene from Los Angeles. Eileen and her husband started a ministry in Johannesburg to help criminals go straight. Their business is booming. Success is slow, measured one person at a time.
We stayed two nights at the Hilton City Center, not far from the trendy area of Cape Town. Our hotel is located literally down the street from the Bo Kaap neighborhood of brightly painted houses of yellow, green and blue. Bo Kaap is a popular tourist destination at the foot of Signal Hill. Most of the inhabitants are of Malay descent (formerly called "Coloreds"). The Cape Malays, as they are called, were imported by the Dutch traders in the 16th and 17th Century from the East Indies, Malaysia and elsewhere in Africa and Asia. Tourists flock to Bo Kaap for its fine restaurants serving Cape Malay cuisine, a delectable combination of Asian, Arab and European food.
Other than Nelson Mandela, I should mention some other important personalities who are celebrated in South Africa Dr. Christaan Bernard performed the first heart transplant back in the 1960's. The main hospital in Cape Town is named after him.
HELEN SUZMAN
The main road along the harbor is named after Helen Suzman (1917-2011). Most Westerners don't know who she was but for many years, she was the only anti-Apartheid member of Parliament. She was the lone voice in the wilderness. Born in South Africa, she was a Jewish woman of Eastern European descent. She founded the Progressive Party in 1959, and for 13 years was the only member of Parliament representing that party.
During her 36 year tenure in Parliament, she worked tirelessly to improve prison conditions for Nelson Mandela and his fellow ANC members whom she considered political prisoners. She used her Parliamentary Privilege to get around government censorship and pass information to the media about Apartheid's worst abuses. She was an eloquent and witty speaker. For example, when she was confronted by an opposing member of parliament about embarrassing the country with her questions, her reply was "It's not my questions that embarrass South Africa, it's your answers!" Mrs. Suzman was twice nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize and I'm curious to know who did win the prize in those years. On the other hand, Mahatma Gandhi never won one either.
To be fair, after the African National Congress came into power, she often criticized that government also because of rampant corruption.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
Many foreigners think Cape of Good Hope is the Southernmost point of Africa. It is not. The actual Southern point is 105 miles East at Cape Agulhas ("Cape of the Needles" in Portuguese). That is officially the boundary between the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean although you can't tell from looking at the water.
SAFARI AT AQUILA GAME RESERVE
On our last day in South Africa, we visited the Aquila Game Reserve, a luxury resort near the Stellenbosch wine country. Tourists go to see the Big 5--African elephant, Cape buffalo, rhinoceros, lion, leopard. We also saw hippopotami, zebras, ostriches, elands and others. There are no tigers in Africa, but if there were, they would be in that park. The guide drove us around in a 4 wheel drive truck seating about 12 people. Fortunately it had a canvas top because it was raining The animals don't go inside when it rains, so we saw them in their natural habitat. In the old days, people, big game hunters, went on safaris to shoot big game. Then they would have the dead animals stuffed and bring them home to display in their family rooms. The authorities don't allow that anymore.
The Aquila Game Reserve is huge, covering 10,000 hectares (over 24,000 acres or 39 square miles). The animals are protected from poachers, but they still have security people guarding the park.
Several years ago, the cheetah population was becoming endangered. The authorities determined that farmers were shooting or trapping them because they were preying on sheep and livestock. Someone came up with a brilliant idea--the farmers would breed large, fierce Anatolian Shepherd dogs to chase away the predators. We're talking large and fast dogs--150 pounds or more who can run 50 mph. The dogs were introduced to Southern Africa in 1994 and have done a terrific job protecting the livestock. As puppies, the dogs are raised in a pen with the sheep. After a whIle, the dog thinks it's a sheep. When a cheetah or other predator would approach, the dog would chase it away. Then the farmers didn't have to shoot the cheetahs. Incredibly it worked, and the cheetah population came back.
Our truck drove past a large pond and we saw a hippo poking his head out of the water. A hippopotamus spends most of its days submerged in the water except for its nostrils and head. When it surfaces, birds light on its back and feast on ticks. The hippo eats grass when it comes out of the water at night. It is very dangerous to humans because it kills them although it doesn't eat them.
We saw several elephants in the wild near a flock of ostriches. Ostriches are dangerous also. They run very fast but we were told that if one chases you, it is best to run in a zigzag pattern. That confuses them.
We saw a pride of lions composed of two males and five females. Lions lie around most of the time, at least until they get hungry. Obviously you don't want to walk up to a lion, but you are safe on a truck. The lions disregard the truck--they view it as an animal larger than themselves. Apparently the lions feed on eland or springboks which are plentiful in the park.
Later we saw 3 rhinoceres, a male, females and a calf. Rhinos are vegetarians, but if you stand next to one, it will knock you down or kill you. On a previous safari I actually fed a rhino an apple, sticking my hand into its mouth. You can do that if you are on a truck.
NAMIBIA--LUDERITZ AND WALVIS BAY
Namibia used to be called South West Africa. It was originally a German colony prior to World War I. In the late 1800's, European powers were carving up Africa to exploit its mineral resources. Lüderitz was founded in 1883 by a German guy named Adolf Lüderitz who purchased the land from an indigenous chief. Lüderitz was an adventurer. He died on an expedition on the Orange River in 1886, and they named the town after him. A railroad was built in 1907, but it was a sleepy town until 1909 when diamonds were discovered on the beach there, and it became a boomtown almost overnight. They built a new train station in 1912 which is a major landmark in town although the railroad no longer uses it.
Eventually DeBeers coordinated the diamond industry, and now it operates a logistic center in Lüderitz. Other than that Lüderitz is once again a sleepy town in a time warp, but about 12,000 people live in the area. The German colonial architecture looks like it did in 1915 when the Germans abandoned it.
Walking around the semi deserted streets, I stopped in the only tavern in town. The most popular drink on the menu is Windhoek Beer, named after the capitol of Namibia which we didn't visit. In terms of food, Lüderitz is best known for its rock lobster which is barbecued. Restaurants also serve up German dishes like wiener schnitzel. Taxi drivers hang out at the tavern, and we hired a local man to drive us around in a beat up taxi for $10 U.S.
He drove us up a steep hill to the historic Felsenkirsch which can be seen from all over town. The Felsenkirsch, an Evangelical Lutheran church was built in 1911 and has been beautifully maintained. The local Germans raised funds back home in Germany to build the church. Kaiser Wilhelm donated the stained glass windows to the church. The Kaiser, who was Queen Victoria's nephew, hadn't started World War I yet, so he was still a respected world leader.
We also visited the Goerke House which they built around the same time to accommodate the expected visits from German royalty who never showed up. It couldn't go to waste, and railroad executives used the house as a headquarters. Today the mansion is a tourist attraction.
Namibia is mostly desert, the Namib Desert from which the country gets its name. Our ship sailed along the Skeleton Coast, so named because of the skeletons of whale bones and shipwrecks up and down the coast.
The nearby sand dunes are legendary and hikers pride themselves on climbing them. We live near the Indiana Dunes, so that's not a big deal to us. However many people from our ship did so. They were challenged to climb the highest one, Dune 7, hundreds of feet of soft sand. It is very strenuous--a climber takes three steps and slides down two.
Speaking of sand, the most popular sport in Namibia is dune bashing--riding dune buggies at high speeds up and down the dunes. For traction, they have to let most of the air out of the tires. The ride compares to a large roller coaster. We did that a couple years ago in Abu Dhabi and it's lot of fun.
WALVIS BAY
We sailed a hundred miles or so up the Skeleton Coast to Walvis Bay which is the largest harbor in Namibia. The main industries in this busy town are oil drilling, oyster beds and diamonds. The areas we drove past appear prosperous. We saw neat rows of stone, brick and stucco houses. Each house has a 3-4 foot wall around the property. Many homeowners run businesses from their homes, and the walls are adorned with signs promoting their businesses. Some trappings of civilizations have not reached Namibia yet--there is no McDonalds in all of Namibia. On the other hand, there are no McDonalds in North Korea, Bolivia, Iceland or Bermuda either.
We decided to take a catamaran ride from the harbor, next to the Walvis Bay Yacht Club. We had a nice time on the catamaran. Our guide, Luni, an attractive blonde from Windhoek seemed to know all the wildlife by name. Sea gulls swooped by and grabbed fish from her hand. A large pelican with an 8 foot wingspan landed on the deck and schmoozed with the people. Luni fed the bird mora moro fish, also known as ribaldo, from a barrel. She would hold the fish by the tail, and the pelican would grab the fish in his beak and would have to turn it around in his large mouth to swallow it.
Then several large seals plopped on deck and begged for fish. We tourists are not supposed to touch the seals, but the animals are not shy about stepping on your feet. The crew fed us freshly caught oysters which were delicious.
NEXT: BONAPARTE'S RETREAT IN ST. HELENA
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